Pienza
is a small Renaissance jewel in the heart of Tuscany. It is a prefect
example of Renaissance philosophy, which sought to create an "ideal"
model of life and government on earth. This gave rise to the notion
of a town where peaceful and industrious civil harmony could be attainable.
For these reasons the town of Pienza is known as the "utopic town".
The
centre of the urban structure of Pienza is
PIAZZA PIO II. All the principal monuments of this town give
on to this central square: the Palazzo Vescovile, previ
ously
known as Palazzo Borgia, the Palazzo Pubblico, Palazzo Ammannati and
the Cathedral, with it's wooden choir from 1462, its works of art by
Vecchietta, by Sano di Pietro, by Matteo di Giovanni and a christening
fountain by Rossellino.
To the right of the Cathedral is the grand Palazzo Piccolomini, residence
of the Pope, inside which one can visit the arms room, the Pope's bedroom,
the library and Pio II and Pio III's collection of medals.
THE DUOMO
The Cathedral rises up from the site of the ancient Pieve di Santa Maria
and is of scenic splendour from wherever it is viewed.
The cathedral complex takes after gothic Franciscan churches and after
German "Hallenkrchen" that Pio II had admired in his many
trips to the North of Europe. However the façade is entirely
in the style of the Renaissance, and was built under the direct influence
of Leon Battista Alberti, the famous theoretician of classical Italian
architecture of the 1400s.
The inside of the Cathedral of Pienza is Latin cross with three aisles
divided by tall pillars surrounded by semi-columns. According to the
wishes of Pio II, the middle aisle is wider than the outer ones, but
of the same height, so as to allow more light into the room. Inside,
gothic elements blend harmoniously with renaissance architecture.
Inside the Duomo are five paintings by artists of the Sienese school.
These are: la Madonna col Bambino e i Santi Bernardino, Antonio abate,
Francesco e Sabina by Giovanni di Paolo; Madonna con Bambino trai Santi
Lucia, Bartolomeo, Matteo e Caterina d'Alessandria by Matteo di Giovanni,
Vergine Assunta e i Santi Agata, Pio I, Callisto e Caterina da Siena
CHURCH
of SAN GIOVANNI (BATTISTERO)
The
church is built under the apse of the Duomo, and holds the christening
font and some of the ruins of the ancient Romanesque church of Santa
Maria, that was demolished in 1459 to make way for Pio II's new church.
Because it is situated below the Duomo's apse, the Pienza Baptistry
has the appearance of a true crypt. Unfortunately the cracks that are
visible in the cathedral are also present in this lower construction
that rests together with the apse on an unstable clay cliff.
PALAZZO
PICCOLOMINI
Palazzo
Piccolomini was built by Pope Pio II as a family residence.
In order to build it, the architect Rossellino had the old Piccolomini
homes demo
lished.
In this building the influence of the architect Alberti is very strong.
Indeed, Rossellino was directly inspired by Palazzo Ruccellai in Florence,
a building designed by the great architect himself and overseen by the
pupil-collaborator Rossellino.
Even with its grand structure the palace blends in with the other much
smaller buildings around the square. One such example is the white travertine
well, located at the foot of the palace, which blends in harmoniously
with the great building itself, even though it is not of monumental
proportion.
The well's design is also by Rossellino. It is a perfect and elegant
structure that was often imitated in the following century, especially
around Tuscany. Of particular interest is the courtyard within Palazzo
Piccolomini. It is extremely elegant and surrounded by Corinthian columns.
It leads on to a hanging garden onto which the palace faces, with three
loggias placed one above the other. The Italian garden is still intact
and to this day acts as an ideal bridge between the architectural space
and the surrounding nature, a marvel to withhold from Monte Cetona to
Monte Amiata.
Nowadays Palazzo Piccolomini has become a museum where one may visit
the old arms room, Pope Pio II's study and bedroom and the library.
PALAZZO
VESCOVILE (Palazzo Borgia)
Having
built his own palace and the Duomo, Pio II encouraged the cardinals
to build their own worthy residences that would act as their homes during
their stays in Pienza.
Pio II himself brought for Cardinal Rodrigo Borgia (who then became
the future Pope Alexander VI) the old magistrate's palace so that it
would be demolished and rebuilt in the modern style. Borgia however
did not destroy the old building and limited himself to transforming
it, especially the front, and to lift it by a floor, adapting the internal
halls. The palace was damaged during the last war. Borgia's residence,
donated by him in 1468, became the bishop's palace until this day.
Nowadays Palazzo Borgia has become the Diocesan Museum and holds in
its 11 halls several paintings of the Sienese school from the 13th to
the 18th centuries painted by Lorenzetti, Signorelli, as well as the
illuminated codes (codici miniati), and Flemish tapestries.
Along with the permanent show, the museum also holds contemporary art
shows and other events.
IL
PALAZZO PUBBLICO

Finally the Pope wanted the people of Pienza to have their own Public
Palace. This palace was erected at the same time as the Duomo's bell
tower, and it is the only building in the square that has graphite decorations.
In the lower part there is a loggia divided by large ionic columns,
held up by a platform who's façade is made by a compact wall
interrupted by four large mullioned windows with two lights. On the
right rises the cotto tower.
The original antique clock that is cited in Pio II's commentaries, was
substituted in 1568 with another one taken from Certosa di Pontignano.
It is likely that the Palace, probably designed by Rossellino, together
with the bell tower, was built mostly by his collaborator Puccio di
Paolo, who is often cited in the documents related to the construction
of Pienza.
CHURCH
OF SAN FRANCESCO
This church is on the Corso, towards Porta al Murello,
just beyond Palazzo Piccolomini. It is the only important medieval building
within the town. It has only one nave, with walls that were originally
covered with frescos. Nowadays few remains of these frescos are left
near the apse. The church however still has a painting from Duccio di
Boninsegna's school and frescos from the XIV and XV centuries, a painting
of the Madonna attributed to Luca Signorelli and paintings by Matteo
Balducci and Ugolino Lorenzetti. The wooden Crucifix by Maestro di San
Pietro in Rosso has been moved to the Diocesan Museum.
The
DIOCESAN MUSEUM of PIENZA
On
the 7th of May 1997 the newly refurbished Diocesan Museum of Pienza
was inaugurated in the Palazzo Vescovile in Viale Rossellino.
The museum of Pienza holds an extremely rich collection of art works,
paintings, jewellery, tapestries, vestments and vessels, triptychs and
altar pieces, and wooden sculptures that are closely tied to the history
of Pope Pio II Piccolomini's town.
To
this day Pienza is still a town full of charm. Walking through its narrow
alleys arou
ses
deep emotions.
Along the town's streets one finds romantic corners and stunning architecture:
Pio II's "case nuove", a neighbourhood that was built to accommodate
the families that had been moved when building the Pope's palaces; the
S. Carlo conservatory, an ancient fortress that was transformed into
a religious institute that now holds the convention centre, the library,
and in the near future the town's museum; the Gozzante quarter, the
oldest part of town, with small houses that were built on the slope
that faces the Val D'Orcia.
From Pienza it is not difficult to appreciate splendid views of the
Val d'Orcia set in between the Monte Amiata, the Rocca di Radicofani
and the ridge that harbours Montalcino.
Just
next to Pienza is the Pieve di Corsignano, an exceptional example of
Romanesque art, a fascinating monument, and essential to an understanding
of the history and origins of Pienza.
It is just a short walk along the road towards Le Fonti.
Here there are two stunning decorated portals, a cylindrical belfry,
and all the sculptures that the stonemasons left on the inside and the
outside of the church. Of particular interest is the miniscule crypt
under the presbytery.
The Pieve di Corsignano is set in a fascinating landscape and natural
environment.